Dantruong Travel & Tourism

On the morning of Saturday the 27th we got the 10.30am bus to Tanah Rata, a 4 and a half hour journey up windy narrow hillside roads to the Cameron Highlands. The driver must have had a death wish because he took the corners really tight and scraped the wheels of the bus off the hillside rocks with us sitting on the right hand side of the bus and overlooking a 1000ft drop down the side of the mountain – very scary!. We even met an overturned truck at one of the bends but luckily it was being cleared at that stage, but it definitely was not the best road to be driving carelessly on. We arrived at Father’s Guesthouse, as recommended by ‘The Book’ early in the afternoon and were shown to our room in a damp Nissan bunker down the garden but we couldn’t really complain at a rate of 6 euro per night. After a short walk down to Tanah Rata village we called into a tourist office for information and to plan Sundays activities. We decided we were going to get a local bus up to a tea plantation rather than go on one
Us at The Tea Plantation
Us at The Tea Plantation
of the expensive organised tours. On Sunday we got the chugging rattler up the highway as far as we could and then walked the few kms into Sungan Palas Tea Estate and Boh Tea Centre. After a visit to the old tea factory for a short tour we sat down for a nice cuppa before heading back towards the highway. Two locals must have felt sorry for us on the windy road and picked us up in their landrover truck and we gladly jumped into the back for the short spin down to the main road. The highway was lined with strawberry farms, bee hive centres, butterfly farms and cactus nurseries and since there was no guarauntee of us getting a bus the 8km back to Tanah Rata we decided to walk and visit a few of these places on the way. We called into the beehive centre and along the way had the most delicious strawberry sundae and strawberry waffles in the Big Red Strawberry Farm – yum yum. Monday we decided to go and do a hike as there were many trails around the mountains in the area, some shorter than others and some much more difficult. We
Beetle Buzz
Beetle Buzz
chose to do track 8 as it looked short enough around 2km but it turned out to be very steep and took us around 3 hours to go up and back, we found out later it was one of the toughest trails in the area and to top it off there wasn’t much of a view when we got to the top. We didn’t see any animals along the way but spotted a few nasty looking bugs. All in all it was good for the legs though. On the way back down the track we passed a farm with some very tempting strawberries just over the fence and Diarmuid borrowed a few for the road.
That evening we booked the trip to Taman Negara for the morning and were looking forward to the boat trip from Timbelling Jetty to Kuala Tahan village.
So on Tuesday morning we found out that the boat trip wasn’t going and that we would have to get a mini-bus to Gua Musang and a bus to Kuala Tahan, an 8 hour journey altogether. There was only 4 of us on the 38 seater bus from Gua Musang so it was like a VIP ride and
Tea Thieving
Tea Thieving
very comfortable. We arrived at Kuala Tahan, the main village at Taman Negara around 6.30pm and it typically started raining. Luckily it didn’t last long though and the Tahan Guesthouse where we were staying was just a few minutes away. The guesthouse was a nice place with colourful murals on the walls, mosquito nets over the beds and we had our own balcony. That evening we had a quick look around the village as it was getting dark, there were a number of guesthouses around, an overpriced internet cafe, some locals offering laundry services and an array of restaurant boats down on the river. It seemed like a nice quiet place to stay for a few days and we were looking forward to it. Wednesday we got a river taxi across to the park headquarters to pick up our entry and camera permits and then took to the jungle trails of Taman Negara or as Lonely Planet describes it, ‘A buzzing, leach-infested mass of primary forest’ . We trekked up to the canopy walkway and up to the viewpoint at Burit Teresek. The view over the river and Mt Tahan was lovely. The hike itself was tough, although only 1.7km
Diarmuid at the bunkers
Diarmuid at the bunkers
the heat was unreal and made it difficult. We didn’t see much in the jungle besides lizards and bugs but we were more so looking forward to seeing and hearing it come alive in the night time. On the trail back we stopped off in at Lubok Simpson Swimming Pool, which was a fresh water pool in the small Sungai Tahan river. We saw the most amazing dragonflies of various colours – purple, red, pink and orange and spent a while trying to photograph them. Thursday morning we prepared ourselves for a night in one of the jungle hides, we booked the boat for 2.15pm to take us down river to within 1km of Bumbun Yong hide. We got there early with enough time to familiarize ourselves with our surroundings and scout the hide for bugs and wait for dusk. There was a guestbook in the hide full up with comments from other peoples visits over the last year and probably a huge mistake for us to read. Most comments referred to a huge spider living in the hide – “Watch out for the huge black spider that lives in the toilet”, “While sleeping I felt a huge spider crawling
Ready for a hike
Ready for a hike
inside my sleeping bag”. To top that off while we were in the hide a French couple came in, the guy had long black bushy hair in a ponytail and looked a little distraught, they told us they had just been to a hide nearby called Bumbun Blau where a huge terrantula jumped down from the beam and clung to the guys hair. He said he felt something realy heavy on his neck and turned around quickly and when he swung his hair the beast went flying onto the floor and scuttled off. We knew then that the night ahead would be very very interesting….We searched the hide for a while but just found a couple of geckos near the bunks. The hide itself just consisted of 12 solid wood bare bunks, flimsy shutters on some of the windows, one disgusting looking toilet and an open viewing window overlooking the salt lick 100 metres below. There were also blood splatters all over the ground, we can only presume from when people burned or pulled leeches off themselves and then squashed them. We sat still for a while and waited and watched a mouse deer as he approached from the side
Taking to the trails
Taking to the trails
of the salt lick, looking for the little drops of water still on the surface of the drying mud pool. Then there was nothing much, it got dark and the fun began. The insects started chirping, branches started breaking, the geckos in the hide started calling and the fire flies came out in force. It was an unusual experience, peaceful at times and we now understand why the sounds of the jungle are often described as a symphony. It was also one of the scariest experiences but thankfully Diarmuid stayed up all night on guard against the dreaded arachnids. We spotted a second deer during the night but then 8am came and went but no more animals were to be seen at dawn. We felt lucky to have survived our night in the jungle and on a huge adrenalin rush we trekked up to Gua Telinga Cave. Surrounded by cobwebs and bugs we crawled through the guano stenching tunnel for what felt like hours. Suffering then from a mild case of post traumatic stress we headed back towards Kuala Tahan but taking the wrong path ended up in a Orang Asli village by accident before turning back and reaching the
View from Burit Teresek
View from Burit Teresek
swimming pool for a long and welcome soak. We chilled out then for the rest of the day and planned our route to Palau Perhentian on Saturday. We are ready and willing to say goodbye to the jungle and looking forward to some beach relaxation..sea and sand here we come…